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Splinter graft: Instructions for performing this grafting technique, also known as flake grafting. Best time and recommended plants.
L'splinter graftorflake graftit is called so because theslipsthey have the form of small splinters of wood. This grafting must be done when the rootstock bark can be detached with little difficulty from the wood. In practice, in the nurseries, in the summer when the barks are more yielding, one begins to practicedormant bud graft. Towards the end of the summer, the barks come off with some more difficulty and it is in this period that you can continue with theflake graft.
Splinter grafting, on which plants
The plants recommended for the execution ofsplinter graftthey are all fruit plants. From pome fruit such as apple and pear, to stone fruit such as almond, peach, cherry, apricot and plum. It can be performed on minor species such as medlar, jujube, persimmon, pomegranate and even the Japanese medlar. In short, it is agraftingwhich is well suited to all fruit dishes.
Best months: when splinter grafting is done
As stated, the splinter graft is performed in late summer, in September.
Period: when to take the scions
The scions are those branches intended to provide the buds for grafting. They are taken from the "mother plant" at the time of grafting itself or, at most, a few days before.
I recommend you take theslipsin the most mature part of the mother plant, perhaps in areas exposed to the south. The branch must be completely defoliated, leaving about 1 cm of petiole.
If the graft is to be done after a few days, you must wrap the scions in damp paper or cloth. The scions can be stored for 3 - 4 days.
Generally thescionit is picked up with a grafting knife with a clean and sharp blade. The cut must be clean and free of any fraying.
If you don't have a well-sharpened grafting knife you can take a look at Amazon's proposals:grafting knife. It is only a"suggestion"so before purchasing, make all your evaluations.
Splinter graft, how it's done
From the scion, take the bud: place the knife under the bud (about 1 cm below). Cut below the gem and exit (without cutting completely) with the blade about 2 cm above the gem. The final cut must be made at 45 ° with the but inclined.
In practice, in the end you will have to have a bud that will have 2 cm of branch below and 1 cm of branch above. In the longest part (2 cm) you will have to finish with a chisel cut, i.e. with a 45 ° cut.
The scion is inserted into a cut made on the rootstock.
The cut on the rootstock is practiced by crawling along the bark. The cut should be facing down and about 3 cm long. The cut should not deeply affect the wood but only raise the most superficial part.
To remove the cut bark part, you will need to make a new chisel cut where the scion will be inserted. In practice, a tab is obtained which will serve as a support for the chisel cut of the scion.
To have a good chance of taking root, it is important that the width of the cut made on the rootstock is identical to the width of the bud you need to graft.
The bud is tied to the rootstock with paraffinic or degradable plastic tapes. The tape must cover the gem entirely.
In the following winter, roughly in February, if the splinter graft has a streak, you will have to cut the rootstock 30 cm above the last grafted bud.
You may also be interested in the guide on the diametral split graft, for all the info: split graft.
Illustration from: larapedia.com